Michael's Wanderings

Amazonas Trip - Day 3 - Afternoon to Finish

2008-07-20T05:21:00.000-07:00

As I mentioned in an earlier blog entry the resort was like from out of a Hollywood set. Constructed in timber and bamboo it blended nicely with the surrounding jungle.

(Left - my bedroom with the mosquito netting rolled up on my bed)

Rooms had only 3 walls giving a outlook to the nearby jungle. Rooms also had no doors, but hanging curtains. Naturally all beds were fitted with mosquito netting, and we also had brought anti malaria tablets - just in case.

(Right - another view of the bedroom looking to the main entrance. Curtains to the left are to the bathroom)

(Left - rooms were equipped with hammocks for that siesta time)

(Right - on a stroll by myself along the jungle tracks I found this colorful butterfly - called "mariposa" in Spanish)

(Left - I walked to this outlook overlooking the Tambopata river where I could watch the passing parade)

(Right - overhead the birds wheeled)

(Left - a very large catterpillar on the path)

(Left - spot the frog in the picture?)

(Right - the dining room on the lower level - we sat with our guides for each meal which was a buffet - not a huge range of foods, but satisfying)

(Left - our riverboat waits for the final trip back to Peurto Mondonaldo

(Right - it was a quicker trip back as we were now with the current, but still around 3 hours - so for some it was a good time to doze)

(Left - a bit difficult to see, but a flock of birds were squawking in the tree - our boat stopped for a look)

(Right - and back at the airport we were ready for our 45 min flight back to Cusco)

Amazonas Trip - Day 3 - Morning

2008-07-19T05:09:00.000-07:00

Fortunately there was an option of paying money to stay an extra day, which we availed ourselves of - US$100, which turned out to be good value we thought. Especially as travel to and from the lodge takes the nest part of the first day, and timing requires early morning departure on leaving on the last day.

(Left - another group boards their boat for the trip down river back to Peurto Maldonada for their trip back to civilasation - note the gentle picking of the way over the mud)

(Right - our hotel name plate hanging outside the front entrace)

We seemed to do more on the first day, and on the second day in the afternoon, our venture to see the clay lick of the wild pigs was pretty well non-eventful, so this blog covers some general bits and the morning of the third day.

(Left - the gumboots lined up outside the front entrance for those tracks used early in the morning after all the evening precipitation - after all it IS a rainforest)

(Right - a stand outside is used to demonstrate opening of local brazil nuts - with a large machete, and also an even larger strong arm. Once opened the outer pod shows some 10 - 12 brazil nuts still encased in another very hard shell. These are cracked open with a special nut cracker. In the early morning a squirrel checks to see if there are any left over pieces of brazil nut for breakfast)

(Left - we make the usual hazardous crossing to the boat on the river)

(Right - we cruised along the river to our next feature point)

(Left - one of the fee animals that we saw was a Pacybara, a bit like a big wombat but with much stubbier nose. These are river bank creatures, who love the mud - it helps with insect control)

(Right - this particular animal also had a sore on its back, generally where the insects lay their eggs. Some of the local birds work with the Pacybara and sit on its back feeding off the insect larvae)

(Left - at the end of our short ride we alighted - again on the riverbank - VERY carefully)

(Right - and headed off into the jungle again)

(Left - Along the jungle track for about an hour)

(Right - this tree was covered with caterpillars, each of which can give a painful sting)

(Left - this tree is covered with very strong and sharp needles. Originally local natives would break off these needles, dip the points into the poison sack on the back of some of their local frogs, and use them for poison darts in blow guns)

(Right - our guide Paty demonstrates the use of the umbrella palm for inclement weather)

(Left - this cone is the home of the local cicada. It builds this mud cone for depositing its eggs. Inside there can be several layers as the cone is used again)

(Right - our intrepid explorer on the track)

(Left - as you may imagine there is a constant battle for sunlight from above. This tree with the long roots is known as the "walking tree". It sends down its roots on the side which is believes will give it more sunlight, and sheds those on the duller side. In this way it can "move" up to 5cms a year toward an area where there is more access to light.)

(Right - we continued onward through the jungle)

(Left - it would be quite a battle without paths)

(Right - these palm leaves fall to the ground, and generally land this way up. Hence they can catch the moisture and provide a place for small frogs to lay their eggs)

(Left we finally reached our objective - a bird hide constructed overlooking the clay lick.)

(Right - at this strech of the river the banks contain an element of clay which the birds use to digest. This clay helps offset the toxins which the birds may have absorbed in their daily seed eating)

(Left - unfortunately we didn't see too many birds - we heard a lot - but if the birds had come this is what they would have seen - me on the right)

(Right - after our non-bird spotting we walked back to the river bank, and waited patiently for our boat. Times in Peru are very slack - anything up to a half hour is "on time". So we amuised ourselves watching this group of butterflies on the river bank.)

(Left - finally our boat arrived to meet us - our guide Paty on the banks)

Amazonas Trip - Day 2

2008-07-16T04:56:00.000-07:00

Day 2 started early - in fact at 5am, when our personal guide, Paty, knocked on our doors - well on the door frame, as we didn't have any doors. She had asked us to acknowledge so that she knew that we were awake. I was already up anyway, as I didn't want to miss out on anything.

(Left - the lookout tower)

We assembled in the main foyer, traded our boots for the hotel supplied gumboots - try finding two gumboots of the same size!- and then we set off with torches along one of the jungle paths to the lookout point.

(Right - the sun comes up on another day in the jungle)

The lookout point was some 20 min walk from the main building, and is a 30 metre steel tower set in a small clearing in the jungle. This height takes it above most of the surrounding treel line. We climbed to the top, and waited for the sunrise. (I did note that the tower is braced with about 8-10 sets of cables on each side.) Once at the top, the guide cloesd the trapdoor through which we had just climbed. There were 10 of us including the guide, and that was quite jammed.

(Left - we headed off along another jungle path back to the river, where our ferry man was waiting)

After about an hour we headed back to the lodge for breakfast, and then our next venture starting at 9.30am

(Right - Erin and Courtney start to negotiate the tricky part of boarding)

The main problem with all this boat travel was the poor facilities to enable one to get onto the boats. There are no jetties, and boarding requires negotiating the slippery boarding plank (actually the bottom of some departed boat!!), then steeping onto the small ramp that lead up to the boat. This was generally canted at and angle, and the mud on the bottom of ones shoes made it quite hazardous)

(Left - our guide, Paty, explains with a dust drawing about farming in the area. The local people gain a piece of land, and then clear one quarter for planting. The following year the first plot lies fallow, and a second quarter is cleared for further crops)

(Right - bananas are one of the big crops in the area. The farmer sells to the river taxis, that buy the produce and carry it down river to the markets. Naturally the farmer gets a pittance of what the end man gets)

(Left - Paty shows us another of the fruits grown here. Once peeled the flesh inside is very soft and tastes a bit like custard apple)

(Right - whilst at the farm a passing butterfly takes a little rest on Courtney's shoe)

(Left - meanwhile back at the lodge lunch is being served - buffet style - simple but sufficient - and when you consider there ius no electric power for lighting - they do make an exception each day from 12 - 1 and 5.30 - 9.30 when they have some power generation for those of us who need to recharge camera or phone batteries)

(Right - after lunch, and a siesta, we were off again, on another walk to a nearby lake where we boarded a small canoe. My biggest concern was that with five of us on board there was some 4 inches free board, which made me quite nervous. In addition whilst we were made to wear life jackets on the river trip up, there was no compulsion here)

(Left - on the lake we saw a number of small bats clinging to a partly submerged loog)

(Right - we left the boats and walked into the jungle on the other side. Paty showed us some large trees, which hold religious sugnificane to the local people. This is a large white kapok tree which the Shamuns visit regularly, as it is said to contain good spirits. The Shamuns also visit a nearby red kapok tree - these latter contain the bad spirits - but you have to keep the bad spirits on nside too.)

(Left - for good measure Erin and Courtney stand inside the roors of another very large tree.

(Right - some of the trees in this area are very big)

(Left - after our tree viewing we returned to the boat, and I held my breath as we steadily made our way bacj across the lake to the original side)

(Right - we were however treated to a lovely sunset)

Amazonas Trip - Day 1

2008-07-14T15:22:00.000-07:00

For all volunteers who come to Peru's Challenge there are a number of included tours. As your stay is longer so are there more tours included.

(Left - coaches took us from the airport to the river bank of the Tambopata river)

Those coming for 12 weeks get the added tour entitled "Amazon Jungle", and so this was to be my last tour whilst I was here. I was fortunate in taht another 12 weeker, Erin, and also Courtney, an employee of Ultimate Tours who was doing familiarisation tours wanted to go at the same time. So there were three of us, which makes for more enjoyment in travelling with friends.

(Right - all supplies for the area go up on the river boats)

The title is a little misleading in that the tour goes to the Tambopata river, which is a far distant source of the Amazon, and the area is more correctly entitled Amazones - it is a part of the Amazon jungle, but well removed.

(Left - we walked down a very steep stairway to reach our boats)

Still it IS jungle, and one has to travel by launch some 3-4 hours up the Tambopata river to reach the accommodation. In addition it is well removed from civilisation.

(Right - we board our vessels for the 3-4 hour trip up river)

(Left - one of the requirements is to wear life jackets for the journey - Courtney and Erin don theirs)

(Right - there were two vessels in our group that day. This one set off just behind us.)

(Keft - lunch was served as soon as we left. Thus was a combination of Chinese and Peruvian - being a rice base with local flavours mixed in. The lunch was served in a banana-like leaf, and was useful to dispose of - just put over the side as it is bio-degradable!!)

(Left - upon arrival at the destination we still weren't there - we still had about a 10 minute walk through the jungle to reach our accommodation at Refugio Amazonas)

(Right - our trusty vessel with its ramp over the edge to "assist" passengers alighting - hopefully it would keep at an angle that permitted you to mstep onto the next board, and not into the mud!!))

(Right - we emerged from the jungle to find our retreat - almost like a scene out of a Hollywood movie)

(Left - the rooms were reached by an elevated walkway)

(Left - bedrooms were quite well fitted out - however, one slight difficulty at the onset, was that the rooms had no doors - just curtains - and also the wall closest to the jungle was missing. So you had a very nice view out onto the neighbouring jungle - but there was no walkway, so your privacy was undisturbed)

(Right - the view along the elevated walkway back to the main building)

(Left and Right - one thing all jungles have in common is mosquitos, and the danger of malaria. This was no different, and all beds were equipped with mosquito netting.)

New Kindergarten - Yet More Painting

2008-07-14T15:18:00.000-07:00

As you can see the building painting is progressing nicely.

(Left - the building takes on its final colours)

Blue is the main colour - light sky blue for the upper areas, and dark blue down lower where it will suffer harder wear.

Now the next step is to highlight the windows - and what better colour than bright yellow - the brightness of the sun. After all the Incas worshipped the sun.

(Right - volunteer Claes adds the brighter touch. Selvey can just be seen inside.)

(Left - the door and windows are outlined in darker blue)

New Kindergarten - Concrete Mixing

2008-07-06T05:00:00.000-07:00

Concreting is a tedious job , when done by hand.

(Right - Jesus pours the cement into the barrel)

(Left - Jesus pours the concrete onto the tipped wheel barrow)

Our builders are used to doing it this way, but to improve matters PC acquired an electric powered cement mixer to speed the task.

And for the men it was like a Christmas present.

(Right - add the sand)

(The only reservation that I had was their method of connecting the electricity!! Safety is not higth on the agenda here. Electric power is 220 volts and there are NO earth connections - everything is 2 pin!! And at work here they took the power leads - no connecting plugs and wound the bare wires around the one running from the cement mixer!!! But it seemed to work, and no one sufrfrered - at that stage!!)

(Left - our new mixer)

The other slight problem was that when the cement mixer was tipped to pour the slurry the barrel was that low to the ground the receiving wheel barrow had to be tipped on it's side to receive it. Then with the angle of the wheel barrow some of the cement spilled onto the ground. Still it did help the speed of the work, and the workers loved it.

(Right - another load of freshly poured concrete is on its way)

(Left - inside the workmen are packing the poured concrete around the foundation stones)

(Right - the pourer returns for another barrow load of concrete)

(Left - another load arrives and is tipped onto the foundation stones)

(Right - the concrete pour continues)

New Kindergarten - The Paths

2008-07-06T04:56:00.001-07:00

Concreting is an interesting aspect of the local construction work.

(Left - the formwork in place ready for the stones to be layed)

There is no usage of our traditional steel reinforcing mesh or rods. Instead they use a foundation of large rocks. These are broken up to provide a firm base. In addition the rocks are broken and layed in such a way that there is a reasonably level surface to the top. These rocks are placed such that they are quite stable.

(Right - the full footpath with form work edging is prepared, ready for the addition of more stone which is to have the upper surface levelled.)

The top surface is even checked for levels by string lines.

When all is ready the concrete is mixed and poured over the stones, then smoothed in the normal manner.

(Left - the kitchen floor has been layed and coloured over a base of levelled stone)

(Right - the finished path with stones ready for the concrete to be poured. Note the level achieved on top.)

New Kindergarten - More Concreting

2008-07-06T04:37:00.000-07:00

The concrete render is applied to the lower part of the outer walls. These will suffer harder wear.

(Left - the lower part of the outer wall, with cement render.

(Right - the lower cement render with the stones layed as foundation for the coming concrete path)

(Left - the cement is mixed by hand)

(Right - one of the workman mixing the concrete)

(Left - the stone work foundation for the coming kitchen floor)

(Right - this will be a step in the forthcoming concrete path - notice how the foundation stones have been layed)

New Kindergarten - Concreting

2008-07-06T04:31:00.000-07:00

This is a part of the building of the new kindergarten that I completely missed. And it was so interesting, I had to include it. But it is a little out of order.

(Left - the wooden flooring has been layed over supporting beams and dirt packed between the supports)

We have covered the construction of the walls and also the application of the plaster and paint, and the cement render on the lower part of the walls.

(Right - in the planned kitchen the workmen start to lay the large stones for the concrete base)

However we have't covered the construction of the concrete paths or the floor in the planned kitchen. We normally lay concrete with some aggregate included or using reinforcing mesh. Neither of these are used directly.

(Left - the concrete render on the lower part of the outer walls)

The concrete is mixed with local sand, which often contains pebbles and rocks, so it forms a sort of aggregate. However, in place of reinforcing mesh, they use local stone. These are very large, often cracked into smaller pieces, and then layed as a solid base. The tops are checked and levelled to produce a fairly level surface. This is often checked with a string line. Over this stone foundation the concrete is layed.

(Right - the workmen laying the kitchen foundations)

(Left - a workman works on cutting out the placing for the concrete path around the building)

(Right - the stones being prepared for the surrounding concrete path)

Lunch at Puma Marca School

2008-07-02T19:56:00.001-07:00

Lunch is a big event at PumaMarca school, which ever grade you are in.

(Left - for kindergarten the lunch is served in bowls at their tables)

(Right - we enjoy our meal)

It is also important to remember that many of the kids may not have had breakfast, and in some cases their last meal may have been the lunch at school the day before.

(Left - the best part of kindergarten)

(Right - we know where the spoon goes)

The school has a roster of mothers who attend tocookthe meals in thekitchen. In addition we provide a bread roll and also a piece of fresh fruit - normally bananas, which are delivered to our house each morning, for the trip up to the school. However the cooked meal, usual some form of soup with nutrition is appreciated.

(Left - for the higher classes a big tub of soup is mixed up under the care of a parent, with the kids lining up with their bowls)

(Right - the food line - a bit like the army???)

But the lunch and food do NOT come without some cost to the children - they have to wash their hands under running water with soap provided, then receive a dolop of skin conditioner (the boys hate this and ask for "pocko" - Spanish for little - as they hold out a little finger.) In this case I open their hands, and give them a big dolop, which they then have to smear on their face. If they haven't washed their hands or put on the cream, then no food handouts and they have to go and do it again.

(Left - the line waits patiently)

(Right - I'll nibble my bread roll whilst I wait

(Left - time for a chat with the person behind me)

(Right - I'm ready, roll in hand and cup at the ready)

(Left - bet you I can get the roll into my mouth)

Computer Classes

2008-07-02T19:53:00.001-07:00

Another facet of teaching is for computers. Actually many of the houses in Puma Marca do not have electric power let alone such things as computers or the Internet.

(Left - Meet a computer)

However the school teaches to grade 6, after which the children got to the High School in Cuzco - this often involves a long walk down the hillside to get to school.

At High School there is usage of computers, so our task is to introduce the older children to computers and show them some basics, like loading disks, etc., Word, and Excel.

(Right - Claes with his two charges, for a training session)

Claes, our Swedish volunteer (and also a computer technician back home runs these courses. Here are some photos of a session.

Kindergarten Building - Doors & Blu Paint

2008-07-02T19:43:00.001-07:00

After lots of sanding of excess plaster on the ceiling and walls, and windows and door frames, and application of thin white primer, we are ready to start the seriousd painting of the top coats. These will be the traditional dark and light blue and white with yellow highlights around the windows.

(Left - the doors and theside wall)

And also the doors have arrived - so we are approaching lock up. The doors were manufactured at the carpenter's shop in PumaMarca.

But now we will be changing over to oil based paints, with the usual problem with inexperienced painters of cleaning up the rollers and brushes afterwards.

(Right - the new doors look really good)

But undaunted we charge on. Here we are on thefirst day of the top coats. The windows and door frames have to be outlined in dark blue, for which it is necessary to measure borders and then edge with masking tape. Again the paint is terrible to work with - it doesn't flow evenly and it is almost impossible to cut in edges. At the top of the light blue wall it is necesary to cut into the white roof line. This proved almost impossible with the brush that I had.

(Left - workers mark out the window borders for the dark blue paint.)

(Right - marking out the boundary)

(Left - roller painting pimer inside)

(Right - volunteer John cuts in the primer at the base ofthe wall. Notice the blue drop cloth on the floor - for protection)

(Left - outside the workers start on the blue paint - dark and blue)

(Right - rollers are good for the light blue application)

(Left - it helps being tall for the window edging)

(Right - the lower concrete render is coloured dark blue - it will take more knocks)

(Left - we managed to paintg most of the main wall in the day - but still needs a lot of cutting in!! And someof the volunteers needed a lot of cleaning too!!)

(Right - the building is starting to look good in its new colour scheme - perhaps we will finish it in July!!)

Talleries - Wool Balling

2008-07-02T19:37:00.000-07:00

Talleries (pronounced Tay-yer-ries) meets three times a week. We attend on Monday and Thursday evenings from 4pm to 6pm, mainly to help with recording of stockandcorrect tagging of completed craft items. We normally finish well after 6pm, and then face the 35 min.bumpy ride back to our house.

(Left - the room is jammed with Mothers and children frantically rolling.)

Last week, Eres, the social worker coordinator changed the routine. We normally issue ballsofwalltothe Mothers touse toknit their chalinas, pulceras, gorros, etc. But we are getting low on wool, so a quantity of skeins have been bought and the Mothers need to roll them into balls. They didn't want to do this, so Eres set a competition - for every ball rolled the Mothers got a point.This point could give them an excused absence from Talleries attendance!!!

(Right - talk, look and roll!!)

So this generated a lot of activity, as I have tried to record in these shots.

(Left - roll on, roll on!!)

(Right - Mothers come complete with baby on back - they can still roll - Mother I mean!!)

(Right - some of the skeins waiting to be rolled)

Puma Marca - To Cuzco

2008-07-02T19:27:00.001-07:00

Three mornings a week we journey up the unmade road to Puma Marca. The village sits high in the hills, some 35 minutes bouncy drive up the dusty road. There is only one road with the village houses clinging to the slopes on either side of the road. These are some shots of what we see on the way.

(Left - the main street - traffic is 2 way,and very narrow - passing is difficult. An added problem is that there are no parking restrictions.Vehicles are left where the driver alights)

(Right - two of the school teachers wait by the side of the road, for some form of transport. A taxi service operates between Cuzco and Puma Marca. The fare is 1 Sol (Aus 0.40 cents), however there is no limiton how many passengers travel. The objective to get as many people in at a time - even if they have to sit in the rear of the station wagon, or sit on some other passenger's lap!!)

(Left - further along the main street)

(Right - the local carpenter is making some more chairs for the school)

(Left - another villager is hard at work making adobe bricks for a new building - these are drying in the main street)

(Right - further along we leave the houses and enter the open spaces - a lovely view)

(Left - vehiclesa are not the only road users!!)

(Right - another villager walks their animal home)

(Left - animals come and go in all directions - watch out vehicles!!)

(Right - further down the road another villager wheels loads of mud for new bricks)

(Left - villagers carry completed mud bricks up the hillside - despite the strength of the locals, and their custom of carrying heavy loads, two bricks at a time is the limit)

(Right - we are almost down to Cuzco and looking forward to the sealed roads again)

New Kindergarten - More Painting

2008-07-02T19:20:00.000-07:00

The building is progressing!! The building has been erected, the plaster applied, the floor layed and now the job that volunteers love - the painting!!! Although there are many willing hands the experience is lacking to some degree. It seems that almost as much paint winds up on the brushes, floor or applicators as on the building. However the spirit is certainly willing.

(Left - being tall helps in the higher areas - the bench gives that extra few inches of reach)

The other down side is that due to the costs the paint is "doctored" to some degree to make it go further. The result is that it is a bit thin and at times doesn't cover much.

(Right - our house handyman, memo is probably the best painter that we have)

Still we have now started. The first coat is a primer applied outside and inside onto the plaster or concrete

(Left - no matter how tall, sometimes we need an extension. Memo tends to the lower parts.)

(Right - John wields the roller on the concrete render.)

(Left - the building looks quite smart with the primer applied.)

Puma Marca - School Kitchen

2008-06-28T15:34:00.000-07:00

The school at PumaMarca has its own kitchen staffed on a roster basis by mothers, and Daniela, who seems to be there every day. A meal is prepared each day for the children who receive it after they have washed their hands and applied the dispensed skin cream. As part of the total program the children also receive a bread roll, and a piece of fruit, all dispensed by volunteers.

(Left - the main cooking area with its stove and tubs for the food)

At times the food dispensed at the school may be the only food that the child has that day)

(Right - Daniel with one of the mothers. Most of them attend complete with child trussed to their backs)

(Right - Daniel, of the happy smiling countenance at work preparing some food)

More Building Progress

2008-06-28T15:30:00.000-07:00

Now they ready to lay the floor boards. They use a tongue and grooved board. One of the difficulties in Peru is that in general timber is NOT dried before being supplied, so it is quite common for the timber to twist, warp or cup. Timber is normally sought that the timber yard has had in stock for some time, and thus had some chance of drying out.

(Left - some of the boards have been layed)

(Right - the boards are layed as close to the adjoining board as possible. Then a curved piece of steel with 2 pointed ends is hammered into the supporting transverse piece of wood.)

(Left - this piece of ateel us used as a brace against which wedges can be hammered to put pressuer on the latest floor board forcing it up against its neighbour)

(Right - foreman Jesus saws another plan to size)

(Left - the next plank is placed and the task continues)

Kindergarten Building Progress

2008-06-28T15:22:00.000-07:00

I trust that you don't get bored with the continuing series on the construction of our new kindergarten, but from a technical point of view I find the trade detail very interesting in comparison with the way that we do it in Australia.

(Left - the end of the building. Plaster has been applied to the top part of the wall, and a cement render to the bottom for harder wear)

(Right - the side of the building showing the lower concrete level)

(Left - the building still needs a footpath alongside, so a workman digs a trench for the placement of the footpath)

(Right - inside the building is prepared for the floor boards. Transverse beams are layed and then earth packed into the spaces between to provide a level surface for the boards)

(Left - the earth prior to being packed down prior to laying of the floor boards)

(Right - the earth filled spaces between the support joists)

(Left - work safety is very low on the agenda here. Note the workman working with a pick and shovel has open sandals!!!)

Teaching English

2008-06-28T15:17:00.001-07:00

One of my tasks is to help teach English. Over the week we take classes on all three mornings - classes 1 & 2 on Mondays, 3 & 4 on Fridays and grades 5 & 6 on Wednesdays. In general the lessons cover similar content - with simple changes from mainly colouring and selection for the lower grades to puzzles and pronunciation for the upper levels.

(Left - the grade 6 teacher Ophelia at her desk as Trevor prepares to start for the lesson)

For my first two months I had the advantage of working with Trevor and ex-school teacher and principal, who admitted that he had not taught for many years. However his basic training stood us in good stead, as we developed courses. I was mainly a "gopher" ready to assist where possible, and also correct the work of the children.

(Right - the children at their desks listen to the lesson)

(Left - Volunteer Trevor and Staffer Courtney explain a journey that Trevor recently made, with the aid of a map)

(Right - students puzzle over their "find a word" puzzles, which I prepared for them)

(Left - another student puzzles away)

Lake Titicaca - Island of Taquile

2008-06-28T13:42:00.000-07:00

At the finish of our home stay our host family escorted us back don the hill to the boats, and bade us farewell.

(Left - we came down to our waiting craft)

Our stays had been varied depending on the family and home in which we stayed. They ranged from separate rooms in some places to sharing in others. Eating differed from with the family to separate. In addition some places had adequate electricity, whilst others had none. Again as it was summed up it was an "experience".

(Right - the host families escorted their charges back down to the boats)

(Left - we say farewell to our host families - they certainly did eveything to make our visit a memorable one)

(Right - leaving Amantani we make the one hour crossing to the island of Taquile - on the horizon)

(Left - we berthed at one of the two docks on the island. This side is much less steep than the other side, so the climb wasn't too bad)

(Right - the climb was still UP, but not as steep as Amantani)

(Left - most of the path is sealed, making it quite easy going. However, spare a thought for the little old lady at the rear of our group and her heavy load)

(Right - the paths lead up to the apparently single town on the island)

(Left - as seems traditional the town has a square)

(Right - apparently the city office building in the town square)

(Left - one of the buildings in the town square has been given over to the making and sale of local crafts - again the usual items. One floor advertised that you could see the local women at work - but we found only men knitting!!)

(Right - from the top of the craft building the local community spreads out in the terraced landscape)

(Left - again as seems common on these islands, most of the lanes are narrow and also quite steep, as they too hug the terrain)

(Right - at the top of the rise we can view over Lake Titicaca again)

(Left - then it is a steep climb down to the boats. This is the other side of the island. We avoided the steep climb by coming round the other side of the island)

(Right - our boat awaits for the return journey)

(Right - with the Peruvian flag fluttering we set off for the 4 hour journey back to Puno)

Andean Express - Puno to Cuzco

2008-06-28T13:08:00.000-07:00

At the finish of our visit to Lake Titicaca we had decided that we would pamper ourselves and ride the Andean Express - supposedly one of the ten most attractive train trips in the world. As it was so special, the prices were made to match - US$190 per person - each way. In addition charges on board were in US$. The train runs several times a week between Cuzco and Puno and reservations are required.

(Left - we board our car, and are greeted by our car steward)

(Right - I am seated in my chair, with my own table. )

(Left - shades of the fabled Orient Express. No seats here, but chairs that one can move around, complete with indidual table and little table lamp)

(Right - the train also has a trailing observation car and lounge, complete with bar)

(Left - the fare includes a complimentary pisco sour served at 11am, plus lunch and afternoon tea served at 4pm. Our car steward collects the orders)

(Right - Peru's Challenge staffer Courtney enjoys the rear observation car)

(Left - the countryside crossed is quite desolate)

(Right - the entrance to the town of Juliaca, and industrialised city that manufactures almost anything possible. It is also a town devoid of tourists due to the high crime rate)

(Left - industry is anywhere in the town. Notice the road and trackside welding operation in the foreground)

(Right - there are no controlled level crossings - the moment the trin has passed, crossing starts again)

(Left - at Juliaca some train inspection is carriede out on the wheels!!!!???)

(Right - Julicaca also has a market, and what better place than to be beside the train tracks. Not onhly beside, but on, around, etc. The train passes inches from pedestrians and merket people)

(Left - the train has passed, so pedestrians are free to cross the tracks)

(Right - seconds after the train has passed the tracks have disappeared under a thriving mass of humanity)

(Left - a stall holder drags her tarpaulin across the tracks to display her wares)

(Right - some of the goods are displayed BETWEEN the train tracks)

(Left - displays BETWEEN the tracks)

(Right - the train passing is an inconvenience to the vendors and their customers)

(Left - the train tracks are a good place to prop the bicycles one has for sale!!)

(Right - leaving Juliaca and the industrialisation behind)

(Left - crossing the open plains again)

(Right - some llamas idlyn watch our passing)

(Left - the rear observation car is an idal place to pass the time and meet fellow travellers)

(Right - entertainment in the form of traditional dances and music is provided during the trip)

(Left - the observation car)

(Right - the train snakes its way across the plains)

(Left - we pass isolated communities)

(Right - washing in one community continues despite our passing)

(Left - meals are served with military precision on the train. The staff march out carrying a number of plates, pause at th relevant tables and desposit the plates. They are cleared with the same military exactness - and woe betide you if you haven't finished your plate in the prescribed time!!! )

(Right - the kitchen on board is small but adequate for the service)

(Left - our eastbound train pauses for a westbound train)

(Right - we pass between many mountain ranges - some with snow caps)

(Left - many herds of alpacas and llamas can be seen beside the tracks)

(Right - snow capped ranges)

(Left - the highest point of the crossing - at La Raya - the same place at which the bus stopped on the outward journey)

(Right - me beside the engine at the highest point - 4313 metres)

(Left - the hawkers are still there with their wares)

(Right - with the sun setting we follow the river back into Cuzco)

Lake Titicaca - Amantani Home Stay

2008-06-22T15:00:00.001-07:00

From Uros it is almost another three hours cruising to reach the iland of Amantani.

This is quite a large island, and the main feature here is that the local people offer a home stay with a local family. As we discovered these home stays can have quite differing experiences. The general concensus was "interesting".

(Left - arrival at the port for Amantani)

(Right - the local hosts line up on one side, whilst the tourists await to find who they will be hosted by.)

(Left - after being allocated a host family you start the long walk up the hillside to your home for the night. We estimated the walk to be about 1.8kms, and on a constant slope of around 30 degrees UP. We had frequent pauses, and fortunately we all carried back packs which made it a BIT easier.)

(Right - one of the rest stops.)

(Left - ever onward AND upward we dragged ourselves)

(Right - in some parts there were nicely layed paths to walk along - it was still hard going up, but a bit easier)

(Left - the view from the front yard of my host family - it is a long way down!!)

(Right - my host house. Notice the building high up on the right of the picture!! Yes it is the toilet, construced over a large pit!! It quite freaked out the girls who were staying with me.)

(Left - the bedrooms that we used - upstairs. But we did have electric light in the room)

(Right - bedrooms were simply furnished, and other facilities provided - just in case!!!)

(Left - the bedroom was simply furnished, with three beds. There were adequate blankets but they weighed a "ton". The base was of wooden slats covered with a layer of bamboo. In the morning one of the wooden slats in my bed broke as I tried to quietly arise)

(Right - my host father was obviously a farmer, and there were several types of potatoes drying outside. I noticed that the mother came out to collect some for the meals)

(Left - Mother at the far end tends the cooking on an open fire, whilst daughter prepares some of the food for dinner)

(Right - the daughter prepares some vegetables)

(Left - daughter comes with three bowls of steaming potato soup for us. Dad stands on the left)

(Right - we were dressed in appropriate costumes, mostly made by the locals. These head coverings are amazingly effective.)

(Left - the sun sets over Lake Titicaca)

(Right - for the visitors, the locals put on a dance, and it is expected that all will join in the tradition and be dressed appropriately. For the girls this appears to be a vert involved process with layers and layers of clothing. Our host mother and daughter applied themselves. Not quite sure of the match of the traditional clothes with the slacks that Geena is wearing!!!)

(Left - the dressing continues. In the back corner Sho-Shallah has completed with the black shawl)

(Right - Geena is tied off in the front!!)

(Left - by contrast the male dressing is much simpler - stick your head in the hole in the middle of the poncho and place a hat on your head. This costume is very warm, as I discovered through energetic dancing)

(Right - the locals put on a dance when there are enough visitors, with almost nonstop dancing to the music provided by two bands - one at each end of the hall)

(Left - my host family!! My Madre kept asking me to dance, and it fairly wore me out. The dances were all energetic, and considering the altitude it was quite an effort. But no amount of pleading got me off - they were determined that I would enjoy myself - even if it killed me!!)

Lake Titicaca - Uros - The Floating Islands

2008-06-22T14:42:00.001-07:00

First stop on our journey on Lake Titicaca is Uros, more commonly known as the floating islands.

(Left - we enter a channel through the totora cane, heading for the floating islands)

These islands are actually floating, constructed of a cane called totora, which grows in abundance in the area. The cane is harvested and then layed over the previous layer. Houses are made of the same cane, and as another layer is added to the top, the house is picked up and replaced over the new layer. The cane is tethered with cords to the base of the lake to prevent drifting. Over time the layers matt together and form a base, which is quite solid but does give a sinking sensation as one walks on it.

The people live their whole lives on these floating islands, quite separate from the mainland people.

Nowadays their main subsistence is the tourist industry, with boats coming each day. The boats are greeted by traditionally dressed people. The visitors are given tours of the islands, chances to dress traditionally, visits to the houses, and of course the chance to buy crafts. The tourist season last approximately six months, during the warmer months.

(Right - some villagers lined up waiting to greet our boat)

(Left - the traditional huts, constructed of the totora cane. These sit on a base, and the whole house can be easily picked up when it is time to lay a new foundation)

(Right - we come alongside and a traditionally dressed woman waits to greet us)

(Left - as well as being given talks on the structure of the islands we are given a demonstration of the traditional method of exchanging goods, by barter)

(Right - local handicrafts are also available to buy. Even the little girl is quite adept at selling)

(Left - tourists are able to dress in traditional costume. Here volunteers Donna, Garry and Jess try some on for size and comfort.)

(Right - some of the goods on display for purchase)

(Left - the islanders also construct their boats from the same cane used sa their island base)

(Right - the islanders line up to sing a farewell song, and thank us for visiting)

(Left - and so we say farewell to the floating islands of Uros)

Lake Titicaca - The Lake

2008-06-22T09:51:00.001-07:00

At Puno, we are ready for our trip out on Lake Titicaca. The lake is also the boundary between Peru and Bolivia.
(Left - the stocks of supplies on display at the port shops)

We are picked up from our hotel and taken to the port. This is the jumping off point for trips to the Islands of Uros, Amantani and Taquile. The latter two islands are some 3 hours by boat.
First stop at the harbour is to the shops where we buy supplies for the night on the island of Amantani with a host family. The shops here carry the normal items that one takes - rice, sugar, tinned milk, fruit, vegetables, etc - all ready packed in 1kg bags. We each buy about Sol 20 (Aus $ 8) of items to take as a gift. There is no charge made by the host family, but we believed that the cost is included in our ticket somewhere.

(Right - bottles of water are also a last minute purchase as we are unsure of availability later in the day)

(Left - the myriad of cruise boats moored waiting for their passengers)

(Right - the harbour at Puno)

(Left - our captain takes up the wheel)

(Right - the cabin of our little craft)

(Left - we leave Puno behind)

(Right - Puno from the water)

(Left - the terraced mountain as we head across the lake)

Cuzco to Puno

2008-06-22T09:36:00.000-07:00

One of the trips included in the 8 and 12 week volunteers is to Lake Titicaca, said to be the highest navigable lake in the world.

(Left - our First Class coach stops at the first scenic spot)

There are two ways of getting there - by bus or train. There are two bus services - one an express available night or day, which takes about 7 hours, and is very similar to our Australian interstate express coaches. The second bus service is a tourist bus, taking around 10 hours and with five sightseeing stops and commentary on the way. The Company name for this service is "First Class" which misleads many people. However, it is very similar to our long distance coaches with reclining seats and toilet equipped. (However, so of the local roads are pretty bad with pot holes, making a visit to the loo, quite an experience as you jolt along!!)

(Right - the first stop on the way - Andahuaylillas - the American Sistine Chapel. Inside this church is beautifully decorated, including gold leaf, said to be 24 carat. It was also built over the foundations of an earlier Inca place of worship - again an attempt by the Catholic Church to stamp out the local religion)

(Left - another view of the 3 crosses erected at Andahuaylillas)

The other means of travel is by the Andean Express run by Peru Rail, and said to be among the 10 most scenic train journeys in the world (this probabaly means that it is No 10!) To travel on this train is very expensive with a charge of around US$180 a single trip. Everything on the train is then charged in US$, and if you cannot pay in that currency you can convert to Peruvian Soles at an exchange rate of 3.3, compared to a normal rate of around 2.8!! So they make money, hand over fist!!

(Right - the bus continues overland through scenic country)

Most people making the trip travel to Puno by the First Class tourist bus and then return on the overnight service on the third night. Being quite aged, our group decided that we would go the full first class route we would stay over for an extra night and catch the Andean Express back. So this and the next few blog will cover that journey to Lake Titicaca and back.

(Left - more countryside on the journey)

(Right - Raqchi, Wiracocha's Palace)

The first stop is a visit to Andahuaylillas, to visit the beautifully decorated chapel. Then onto Raqchi (Wiracocha's Palace) to view the Inca ruins there. Just prior to lunch we stop at a (tourist site), where they have some recreations of early Inca buildings, and some llamas o0n display. They also have a selection of the usual tourist giftware.

(Left - the remaining wall at the Inca site - made from a combination of adobe and adobe mud brick)

(Being conscious of animals I had a look at the tethered llamas to find that they have rarely been allowed to run on normal ground as their toe nails were overgrown and curve. Shortly the animal will be crippled.) A stop is made for a buffet lunch (again a quandry as to what to select to avoid chances of salmonella), where we are also serenaded by a group of Peruvian folk singers - who just happened to have CDs of their music for sale!! Another stop is made at a small museum which has been established close to some Inca archealogical diggings - but no photographs are allowed to be taken.

(Right - beside the wall at Raqchi, the bases of these columns remain. They once supported a roof from the main structure on the right)

(Left - even in circular structures the Incas retained the exactness of the fitted stone blocks)

Then on to the last section of the highway, which our guide pointed out was not in such good condition as the previous section - he was right!!! Previously I think the road had pot holes, but this section appeared to be pot holes joined together by road!!! (Forget the on board toilet). Most of this road was toll way, but there appeared to be little traffic that actually used it. We were told that this is because most people don't have cars, and if they do they don't have to go anywhere. So most of the traffic we saw was buses or transports.

(Right - through one of the arches of the standing wall. Notice the fitted stone blocks at the base, facing the rougher adobe mud structure)

(Left - a llama at the tourist stop)

(Right - yours truly with a baby alpaca at the tourist stop)

(Left - we pass another village on the journey)

(Left and Right - the highest point on the road between Cuzco and Puno is Feliza Viaje, near La Raya, where the altitude is 4,335 metres above sea level. The bus stops here for photos, and the opportunity to buy some more souveniers!!)

(Right - the tourist sellers are in abundance again here at Feliz Viaje)

(Left - finally with a sinking sun and after some 10 hours of travel we sight Lake Titicaca and make the run down into the town of Puno.)